Be Here Now Catalina Island

Shortly after the ferry leaves port, the dense sprawl of Southern California fades into the distance. Roughly an hour later, you arrive at Santa Catalina Island, a mountainous ridge rising from the Pacific. Although it has been inhabited for the better part of the past 7,000 years, the Spanish are said to have “discovered” Catalina, one of eight that comprise California’s Channel Islands archipelago, in 1542. Efforts to develop it as a resort destination began in the mid-1800s, and over the years, it’s served as a spring training site for the Chicago Cubs, a WWII military base, and a retreat for Hollywood stars. These days, throngs of tourists hurry between the restaurants and shops of Avalon, the island’s main port which is nestled like a half-bowl against steep hills.

And yet, much of Catalina remains wild. More than 165 miles of trails and roads unspool in loops and spurs across the 22-mile-long landmass. With its craggy terrain and ocean vistas — to say nothing of its fauna, including foxes, bald eagles, and 120-odd bison — the island feels nothing like nearby Los Angeles.

All of which contributes to Catalina’s reputation as a paradise for outdoors enthusiasts. With restricted car usage, biking is one of the best ways to explore, and whether it’s cruising Avalon’s scenic, paved waterfront or tackling stony fire roads, there’s something for cyclists of all levels. To access the trails outside of town, a $35 Freewheeler Bike Pass can be purchased through the Catalina Island Conservancy. But don’t expect any of SoCal’s notorious traffic, unless it’s a line of golf carts in town or a herd of bison in the backcountry.

Beginner/Overnight

Avalon to Little Harbor Loop
Distance: 32 miles
Elevation gain: 4,400 feet

Depart Avalon and begin the relentless climb to Airport in the Sky. After 10 miles and almost 2,000 feet of elevation gain, you’ll arrive at the quaint aerodrome where you can take in beautiful views, fill up water, and grab a beloved “Killer Cookie” from the on-site cafe.

Sufficiently refueled, you’ll be ready for the pleasant 6-mile descent into Little Harbor Campground, a beachfront oasis on Catalina’s remote “backside.” It may be secluded, but it’s got plenty of amenities, including picnic tables, barbecue grills, bathrooms, and staggering ocean sunsets. Be sure to reserve your site through the Catalina Island Company well before your trip as sites can fill up months in advance (see below). And if you want to lighten your load — literally — you can arrange for your camping gear to be delivered to your site for $40 per bag round trip. Complete the lollipop loop by following Middle Ranch Road back to Airport Road, which you’ll follow back to Avalon.

Intermediate/Multi-Day

Trans-Catalina Bikepacking Route
Distance: 70 miles
Elevation Gain: 8,520 feet

For this intermediate ride, you’ll follow the first leg of the beginner route to Little Harbor. But instead of pitching your tent, you’ll ride another 6 miles north to Two Harbors, Catalina’s second, less touristy port. Grab a bite before setting out for 7 miles of a zig-zagging gravel road to >a href=”https://www.visitcatalinaisland.com/stay/camping” target=”_blank”>Parsons Landing Campground, the most remote tent sites on the island. It may be Catalina’s only bivouac without potable water, but it makes up for it with dramatic cliffside vistas and near endless stretches of deep blue water right out your tent door.

The next day, retrace your ride back to Two Harbors for breakfast, then keep an eye out for — and your distance from — the grazing bison as you pedal back to Little Harbor. Strong cyclists could head straight back to Avalon, but why not take your time and enjoy another ocean sunset before drifting off to the crashing waves at Little Harbor Campground? For your final day, you’ll pick up Middle Ranch Road, where you’ll spot horses, foxes, and, if you’re lucky, a few bald eagles as you loop south around 2,097-foot Mount Orizaba to rejoin Airport Road. Not ready to return to town? Pick up Divide Road just west of Avalon to tack on a 10-mile, counterclockwise loop around the island’s southern end and up 1,563-foot East Mountain.

A word of warning: The packed gravel quickly turns to steep, loose, and rocky terrain with possible hike-a-bike sections. If this sounds appealing, consider bringing a more capable steed. Most gravel bikes likely won’t make for a comfortable ride, and you may end up fishtailing or even walking much of final descent. Whichever route you choose, celebrate with a cruise around Avalon, where the isolation of the wild side is again traded for the crowds of an energetic port.

Go and Stay

Two companies provide transport to the island: The Catalina Express ferry leaves from San Pedro, Long Beach, and Dana Point ($92 round trip, $7 bike fee), and the Catalina Flyer departs from Newport Beach ($94, $20 bike fee). Avalon has several posh hotels, starting at $200 per night. For panoramic views and historic elegance, book the four-star Mt Ada Hotel. Airbnb and VRBO options abound, and you’ll find Hermit Gulch Campground just a mile outside of town. There are four other campgrounds on the island, and all five must be reserved in advance through the Catalina Island Company (visitcatalinaisland.com; $35 per adult and $24 per child per night; reservations open every year on January 1). Camping add-ons, including water, firewood, and other essentials can be purchased — and delivered to your site — for an additional fee.

Arts and Culture

The Catalina Museum for Art and History features permanent and rotating exhibits detailing the island’s 7,000-year-history of inhabitation. On the north side of Avalon Bay, the famed Catalina Casino, one of the first theaters specifically built for “talkies,” is a showcase of art deco architecture and murals. The island is also a hub for film, music, and wine festivals. Check out the events page at visitcatalinaisland.com to see if one happens to fall on your chosen dates.

Groceries and Food

Avalon is full of restaurants catering to tourists. Check out NDMK Fish House for seafood, Catalina Coffee and Cookie Co. for something sweet, and Catalina Island Brew House for post-ride pints. For a SoCal-style beach party, head to Descanso Beach Club, the Island’s only beachfront restaurant and bar. (Don’t skip the signature Buffalo Milk cocktail, a frozen concoction of vodka, ice cream, banana chips, and coffee, banana, and chocolate liqueurs.) Stock up on camp food at Vons grocery store prior to departing for the more remote parts of Catalina, but don’t worry too much. There are plenty of places to refuel in the hinterland, including Two Harbors’ Harbor Reef Restaurant and Bar or Two Harbors General Store.

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